A first 7,000 metre peak in the Karakoram, climbed from Arandu by the Chogolungma and Bolocho glaciers, with a small team and a real expedition rhythm.
30 days from Islamabad, 5 of them on foot, reaching 7,027 m. Late July to late August, in groups of 4 to 10. Graded extreme.
Spantik, also called Golden Peak, rises above the Hispar and Chogolungma glaciers and is the classic step up from 6,000 metre climbing. The approach starts at Arandu, the last village beyond Shigar, and follows the Chogolungma glacier for three days to a base camp at 4,360 metres. From there the team works the mountain in rotations, building up through high camps to the summit. The summer departure leaves in late July and a winter departure runs in late December for those who want the peak in deep snow. Either way you walk out the same way you came, with Islamabad and the flight home at the end.
1
Your guide meets you at the airport, holding a sign with your name, and takes you to your hotel in Islamabad. Most international flights land around midnight or in the afternoon, so the rest of the day is yours to sleep and settle in.
Night at Hotel, 540 m.
2
The Ministry of Tourism holds the formal briefing for the Spantik expedition before you leave for the mountains. After the paperwork the day is free to explore Islamabad and enjoy a first proper Pakistani meal.
Night at Hotel, 540 m.
3
The morning flight to Skardu is one of the great mountain flights, and on a clear day Nanga Parbat shows itself beside the wing. You land in the Baltistan valley and have the afternoon to wander the bazaar, stock up on anything forgotten and enjoy the quiet before the walk.
Night at Hotel, 2,498 m.
4
A gentle morning walk up to Kharpocho fort gives a wide view over the Indus and the town. You can add a drive to Sadpara lake, and the afternoon is for shopping in the bazaar while our staff finish the last permits and loads.
Night at Hotel, 2,498 m.
5
The jeep road runs through the Shigar valley and along the Braldu river, then turns left into the Basha gorge. Arandu is the last village on the route, a green oasis of orchards and stone houses, and the point where the jeeps stop and the walking begins.
Night at Arandu, 2,720 m.
6
The trail passes the snout of the Chogolungma glacier and climbs about 700 metres on the first day of walking. Chogo Brangsa is a grassy campsite with the glacier valley opening ahead, a good first night on the way to base camp.
6 hours on foot. Night at Chogo Brangsa, 3,400 m.
7
An early start for a long day along the northern edge of the Chogolungma glacier towards the Bolocho glacier. The route climbs about 400 metres and the camp at Bolocho gives the first views of the high peaks around the Spantik basin.
7 hours on foot. Night at Bolocho, 3,820 m.
8
Another early start, leaving the valley behind to walk on the glacier ice towards the Bolocho glacier. The last 200 metres climb up to the campsite, a base camp at 4,360 metres under the walls of Spantik.
7 hours on foot. Night at Spantik base camp, 4,360 m.
9
A day to sort gear and rest while our crew set up the base camp kitchen and mess tent. The porters head back down the glacier, and the team settles in for the weeks ahead.
Night at Spantik base camp, 4,360 m.
10to 25
Sixteen days are given to the mountain. The team works up in rotations, carrying loads to the high camps and sleeping higher each time before dropping back to base camp to rest, which builds the acclimatisation for the summit push. Our guides read the weather and the snow, and the spare days in the schedule mean the summit attempt goes when the mountain is ready. From the top of Spantik (7,027 m) the view runs across the Hispar and Biafo basins to the giants of the Karakoram.
Night at High camps, 5,400 m.
26
The team and crew pack up and walk back down the Chogolungma glacier, a long day made easier by being downhill. Camp is on the lower glacier, with Arandu a day away.
8 hours on foot. Night at Lower glacier, 3,400 m.
27
The last walking day returns to Arandu, with its orchards and terraced fields feeling very green after the ice. You camp in the village.
7 hours on foot. Night at Arandu, 2,720 m.
28
The jeeps carry you back along the Braldu and Shigar valleys to Skardu and a hot shower in the hotel.
Night at Hotel, 2,250 m.
29
The flight back over the Karakoram brings you to Islamabad for a relaxed afternoon and evening at the hotel.
Night at Hotel, 538 m.
30
This day is held in reserve in case weather moves the Skardu flight, and if all went to plan it is a free day in Islamabad. Our staff take you to the airport for your flight home.
538 m.
Trek, Baltoro, Baltistan
21 days from Skardu
Pioneer routeTrek, Biafo to Hispar, Nagar
18 days from Skardu
Trek, Nagar
5 days from Karimabad
