The second highest plateau on earth by Land Cruiser, Himalayan brown bear country, river crossings and camp beside Sheosar lake.
9 days from Skardu, 0 of them on foot, reaching 4,114 m. July to September, in groups of 2 to 12. Graded moderate.
Deosai is four thousand metres of rolling grass and wildflower, snowbound for eight months and open for four. It holds one of the last Himalayan brown bear populations in Pakistan. We cross it in Land Cruisers from Skardu to Astore, camping on the plateau with mobile glamping kit rather than running it as a day trip, which is how most people see it and why most people see nothing.
1
Welcome to Skardu, the gateway to Baltistan, reached by air from Islamabad or by road from Gilgit. Every Deosai departure begins from here, and the road trip is not to be missed. The night is in a hotel in Skardu.
Night at Hotel, 2,228 m.
2
A day around Skardu to settle in before the plateau. Shangrila is the lower Kachura lake, about 32 km west of town, and Upper Kachura, a short walk beyond, is the quieter of the two. After that comes the cold desert at Katpana, with its dunes beside the Indus. The night is in a Skardu hotel.
Night at Hotel, 2,228 m.
3
The road climbs past Satpara lake and through Sadpara, then up onto the plateau. Bara Pani, the big water, is the first camp, at about 3,900 m, with wildflowers all around. You sleep in the mobile camp.
Night at Bara Pani, 3,900 m.
4
A full day at Bara Pani for bears. The park rangers take you out at dawn and again at dusk, and the marmot colonies are busy all day. Deosai is home to the Himalayan brown bear, and you have the whole day to enjoy the plateau. You sleep at Bara Pani.
Night at Bara Pani, 3,900 m.
5
West across the plateau to Sheosar lake at 4,142 m, under Nanga Parbat. Deosai covers about 2,240 square km and the Balti name for it, Bhear Sar, means the place of flowers. You sleep in the mobile camp beside the lake.
Night at Sheosar, 4,142 m.
6
You leave the plateau through Chilum and drop into the green Astore valley, with views all the way down. The night is in Astore.
Night at Astore, 2,600 m.
7
Up to Rama for Nanga Parbat from the east. From Astore it is a 9 km jeep road, or a walk of about 5 km, and the fields on the way are knee deep in flowers in July. You return to Astore for the night.
Night at Astore, 3,300 m.
8
Down to the Karakoram Highway and north to Gilgit, about 110 km from Astore. The night is in a hotel in Gilgit.
Night at Hotel, 1,500 m.
9
The trip ends in Gilgit after breakfast, with a flight or a road transfer onward. You leave with the memory of the plateau, the flowers and the wide Deosai sky.
1,500 m.
Overland Safari, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan
10 days from Islamabad
Overland Safari, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan
9 days from Islamabad
Overland Safari, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan
9 days from Islamabad
