A short and scenic climb of a 6,046 m snow peak above Skardu, with grassy slopes, a stony ridge and a summit ridge on firm snow.
15 days from Islamabad, 5 of them on foot, reaching 6,046 m. July to August, in groups of 2 to 10. Graded severe.
Khosar Gang is a 6,046 m peak reached from the Sildi valley, only two hours by jeep from Skardu. It is a compact expedition, with a hike to base camp, two camps on the mountain and a summit day on firm snow with about 100 m of fixed rope. The climb moves from grass to stony ridge to snow, and the views over the Skardu and Shigar valleys grow with every day. It is a fine first six thousand metre peak.
1
Your guide meets you at the airport, holding the company sign, and takes you to the hotel. The rest of the day is yours to recover from the flight and sort kit. The capital sits at the foot of the Margalla Hills and is a gentle place to start.
Night at Hotel, 540 m.
2
The morning flight to Skardu is one of the great mountain flights, with Nanga Parbat standing clear of the cloud on a good day. You land at the head of the Indus valley in the heart of Baltistan. The afternoon is free to walk the bazaar and settle in.
Night at Hotel, 2,228 m.
3
A free day in Skardu. Walk up to Kharpocho fort for the view over the Indus and the town, or take a short trip to Sadpara lake. Your team handles the last permits and checks the porter loads while you browse the bazaar for anything you still need.
Night at Hotel, 2,228 m.
4
The jeeps take about two hours from Skardu to Sildi, as far as the track goes. From there you hike to base camp with the strong porters of the team, who carry the loads and know the mountain well.
4 hours on foot. Night at Base camp, 3,800 m.
5
A day of rest and acclimatisation at base camp. Photograph the surroundings and take a walk on the nearby slopes.
Night at Base camp, 3,800 m.
6
A slow climb, first up a grassy slope and then onto a stony ridge, takes four to five hours to the site of Camp 1. Your first night on the mountain is high above base camp, with the valley dropping away below.
5 hours on foot. Night at Camp 1, 4,800 m.
7
An easy ridge leads to Camp 2 in about three hours. There is often some snow here early in the season, but by August the camp is usually clear of the snowline. The afternoon is for resting and watching the light on the peaks.
3 hours on foot. Night at Camp 2, 5,200 m.
8to 10
An early start gets you onto firm snow in the best of the weather. The route follows a gently angled ridge for the first hour, then a steeper section where about 100 m of rope is fixed, before moderate slopes lead to the summit. The climb takes five to six hours up and three to four down, with spare days built in so your guide can choose the best window.
Night at Camp 2, 5,200 m.
11
With the summit done, you descend from Camp 2 to base camp for a night of well-earned rest and a celebratory dinner.
5 hours on foot. Night at Base camp, 3,800 m.
12
An early start on the three to four hour walk to Sildi, in time for lunch in the village. In the afternoon the jeeps take you the two hours back to Skardu.
4 hours on foot. Night at Hotel, 2,228 m.
13
The flight south follows the Indus with the great peaks of the Karakoram beside you. The evening is free in Islamabad.
Night at Hotel, 540 m.
14
A free day to explore the capital or rest after the mountain. Many groups finish with a celebration dinner.
Night at Hotel, 540 m.
15
Your guide transfers you to Islamabad airport for your flight home.
540 m.
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